There is so much today about recycling and re-using materials.  One very important item to re-use is glass ink bottles.  Dick Blick company used to sell glass ink bottles that were empty, by the dozen.  Their supplier went out of business and they haven't found a replacement source.  So, save your empty ink bottles!  I use an old Dymo labeler to put labels on my own mixes of ink, stored in re-used ink bottles.

It's nice to be warm and working inside:

Best book:"Manual of Woody Landscape Plants" by Michael A. Dirr-When you get the chance, plant a tree -plan now for spring

I am currently working on two drawings in pen and ink.  The first is a Saint Michael ACEO :

In the photo above, you will see an error I don't usually make.  On the right side, in the blue/green area, there is a small area where I started to add a light green.  This area will end up fairly dark, so it may not show when I am finished, but just a simple thing as starting without checking you have the right pen can ruin a drawing.  I had several of the same size pens in front of me, and just started with the wrong one.

The other drawing I am working on is "#998 Sinningia ' Bright Eyes' ".  This drawing is also an ACEO-sized drawing, on Aquabee Super Deluxe Sketch Paper.  There are several things to point out in this drawing.  First, for my professional-level drawings, I fully draw the subject using a 2H or harder pencil, keeping the lines very light.  In this drawing, I used a 2B pencil, changed things, added things, and erasure marks will probably show up on this paper after I am finished.  I use a white vinyl eraser because it is the cleanest at removal of pencil lines.

The next thing to point out - I had planned on using FW Yellow Ochre as my base yellow.  I usually rely on FW Process yellow for my first layers, but this plant has a warm undertone to it, so I used a warmer yellow.  On the left leaves there are three layers: the first is yellow ochre, the second is light green, and the third is process yellow.  I really feel that process yellow, a bright color, also ties a drawing together on the same plane.  On the right side of the left leaf, there are the two yellows, and I will be adding greens after I fill in all of the areas with process yellow.

Pen and ink:

A few tips to be aware of when working in pen and ink:

1. The humidity level of your environment will affect the ink flow in your pens.

2. Paper absorbs inks at different rates- a cold press paper will absorb the most ink, having a soft, feathery ink line.  Hot press paper is less likely to absorb, but sheep skin or calf skin absorb the least amount of ink, and the image will almost sit upon the surface.  Those are for professional-level papers; student-level papers will act the same, but more so.

3. The best way to learn control over ink and pen is to work with a crowquill nib in a nib holder.  And in black ink.  You will have to control the ink flow, control the "blobs", know what you are going to put down before you draw it, and mistakes will be more visible.  Its the best way to learn to be better.

4. The tip of a pen is called a "nib", not a tip.  The nib will transfer the ink from a reservoir to the paper.  In crow quil nibs, or other dip pen nibs, the reservoir is the nib itself.  In technical pens, there is a small reservoir that holds ink.

5. Fountain pen inks will work in fountain pens, and you can use fountain pens to draw beautiful things.  Acrylic inks may be used in technical pens, but check the bottle or ask the manufacturer / seller if the ink is safe for a technical pen.  Shellac-based inks, such as some Winsor and Newton inks and other specialty inks will clog and ruin a tecnical pen.  FW Acrylic ink is very similar to the "old" Rotring Artist Color Inks (which are no longer made), and is safe for technical pens.  I think Noodler's has the best fountain pen inks, but I wouldn't put them in my technical pens.  A dip pen can use any ink.

For over 20 years I have had a website up displaying my artwork.  It is also called PenStroke Studio.  I am now moving toward using this blog more and the website less, and at some point will be taking the website down.  Thank you for visiting it in the meantime.

This morning I am working on a Saint Michael ACEO.  In order to fill in the tones of his face, it takes many layers of stippling.

Miniature Pen and Ink Drawings - ACEOS

Art Cards, Editions and Originals

ACEO stands for "Art Cards, Editions and Originals" and the concept behind these miniature works of art is that they are always 2.5 inches by 3.5 inches. 

I offer only one icon-style ACEO design, Saint Michael, Archangel. I have decided to offer original miniatures of the one particular design due to a couple of reasons. One reason is the time consuming format of pen and ink stippling, and the care I take in producing all of my stipple ink work. As with egg tempera icons, working with one "model" or image consistently, improves the results of all the images completed. A second, perhaps more important reason, is that I feel that Saint Michael can guide each of us, and he represents both guidance and safety to me personally. As such, I hope anyone would benefit from owning an original image of Saint Michael.

An ACEO in stippled ink offers an affordable way to own an original stippled piece. Even with their small size (the size of a baseball or trading card), each one takes between 18 and 24 hours to complete. I use professional inks (Rotring Artist Color or FW Acrylic inks ) and now offer them only on genuine sheep or calf skin. These are permanent and original drawings, having light and water resistance to a high degree. Although I recommend each piece be matted and framed by the consumer, each will come in its own protective poly sleeve. ACEOs created on sheep or calf skin are highly recommended to be framed, due to the natural elements of the skin. Humidity and temperature will affect a skin more than any other art surface. 

Please note - these pieces are "only" two and a half inches x three and a half inches in size.

Traditionally, true icons are always created to look the same, using the same "model" icon for each new icon. I consider my icon-style pen work to be just that, and not a true icon. My icon-style artwork will not be signed on the front, as is the tradition with true icons. With religious subjects, it is always hoped that God has worked through the artist, eliminating the need for the artist's signature. However, my ACEOs that are religious in nature will be signed and dated on the back.

Saint Michael Design Available

You may expect that Saint Michael's wings would be a color other than red. At the time I originally designed the "model" for these drawings, I was also working on Orthodox-style religious icons. In iconography, Saint Michael's wings are depicted as red when he is in battle against evil, most especially when done in the Voevoda style. Voevoda is a slavic term that means "leader of warriors". An example of this type of traditional icon may be seen here. My model and design is meant to depict Saint Michael as the triumphant leader of the angels over evil, but to also depict the Light of God reflected in his face. I believe we are always protected by Saint Michael.

On Genuine Sheep or Calf Skin

ACEO " Saint Michael "

2.5 inches x 3.5 inches 

$48.00 each plus $5.80 shipping - on genuine sheep or calf skin 

To Order: 

Please email me to special order a Saint Michael, Archangel ACEO, The time for me to complete a special order is two weeks. Payment method is Paypal and payment must be received prior to my beginning the work.