Friday, February 9, 2024




Drawing With Wax Crayon




Economical, plenty of colors, and this can be a challenging and rewarding art form.



"Pear in Crayon"

Hand-made beeswax crayons

on Winsor & Newton hp watercolor paper





Following my page "What Do I Really Need?" that addresses our current economy and examining my artist's need for materials, I turn to color.



I have decided that the bare minimum I need as an artist is a graphite pencil and paper. That I can learn from only working in pencil, and that I can progress as an artist by honing my skills at tone and form. I also, however, have evolved over the years, into an artist that may be termed "a colorist", so what's an economically-conscious colorist to do when graphite seems too formal for a colorist style? Crayons.



When I was young, I had what many of us had, a box of 64 Crayola crayons. Recently I scrounged through my son's things left behind when he headed for college, and found his box of 64 Crayola crayons. Like Mom, like son, he saved them long past when he was using them regularly.






My Crayola crayon 64-count box from around 1990 - my favorite year and color selection of Crayolas.



I, as an artist, have worked with many professional materials. I like the best pigments, paints, inks, and surfaces, because they last the longest, and have found over the years that the additional cost is generally worth it. However, looking into my own future, with portability and economy in mind, I wanted an art material I could stick in my back pocket, that is very inexpensive, and can be easily replaced. The Crayolas.



Crayola crayons are the brand that I have grown up with and into, so I do not know if Prang, Faber-Castell, and the other brands have similar quality, but generally, wax crayons are wax and pigment.



To back up a little bit, crayons have been used for centuries by artists. Pigment held together in the form of a small stick is an ancient tool. I myself have "professional" crayons, such as the brands Conte and Yarka. These are pigment crayons that are made of pigment and clay, and are closer to pastels than wax crayons are. Below is a photo of Yarka brand Sanguine & Sepia crayons, Sauce crayons (carbon is added to these), and Charcoal. Charcoal is similar to crayon in shape, but does not have similar binders, and so would not be considered a crayon, per se.





The great benefit of working with Crayola crayons is the color selection at such a reasonable price. The professional crayons shown above average about $5.00 per box at this writing, with a few colors being included. A box of all of Crayola's 120 colors, available at this writing, is about $12.99. When cost is such an element in choosing an art material, then I at first have to look at what is the difference in the materials? Pigment. The professional crayons will have much more pigment than an inexpensive wax crayon. But, if the quality of the wax crayon is high, then the amount of pigment becomes less of a factor for me. In other words, if I want to simply draw in color, and I don't plan on the drawing to be archival or expect it to last 200 years or more, then there is absolutely nothing wrong with wax crayon. I actually don't know the longevity of wax crayon drawings, but the wax would not be the factor as much as the strength of the pigment. Ancient drawings done in crayon that survive today were not all done with the most expensive materials.



As an artist, I do not see many drawbacks, if any, to drawing with wax crayons, and especially Crayola crayons. I say especially because as I have been using them again in developing this page, they are consistent, they have a very good pigment strength, they are very smooth in the lay-down, and yes, I just about love them.



So, what can you do with Crayola or other brand wax crayons? Below are some samples. For the most part, I've chosen drawings of pears to depict different styles or effects, but almost any design can be depicted with crayons, from abstract to closely rendered drawings.



First, the "professional" crayons. These are "typical" sketches using traditional artist's drawing crayons.



"Pear in Yarka Sanguine and Sepia Crayon"

on Winsor & Newton hp watercolor paper





"Pear in Yarka Sauce Crayon"

on Winsor & Newton hp watercolor paper





Now, the Crayola crayons. These are also "typical" sketches.



"Pear in Crayola Crayon No. 1"

on Winsor & Newton hp watercolor paper





"Pear in Crayola Crayon No. 2"

on Winsor & Newton hp watercolor paper





"Pear in Crayola Crayon No. 3"

on Winsor & Newton hp watercolor paper







You can see by the above samples, that different styles may be achieved with Crayola crayons. All of the samples above are on a high-quality hot-press-surface (smooth) watercolor paper by Winsor and Newton. The luminosity of the layers of crayon may appear similar to watercolor with the right method of strokes.





Below is a sample of a pear drawn in ink first, with Crayola crayon used to fill in design areas and as an overlay to the ink. This technique is useful for commercial illustration.



"Pear in Crayola Crayon No. 5" (Noodler's "Legal Lapis" Ink under Crayola crayon)

on Strathmore 500 series charcoal paper



Below is a photo of another technique that crayons may be used for. I have drawn the orange in graphite, and then "tinted" it with an overlay of Crayola crayon. Crayon will smudge graphite, and lighter colors will still smudge, leaving them looking more grey than lighter in hue.



"Orange on Table No. 2" before crayon

on Strathmore 500 series charcoal paper





"Orange on Table No. 2" after crayon

on Strathmore 500 series charcoal paper







The designs below show a traditional style rose drawing, and an abstract drawing. Both were achieved with only Crayola crayon on Winsor and Newton hp watercolor paper, and are further examples of the different styles crayons may be used for. I drew a similar rose in colored pencil, and in fact, that drawing is one of my favorite pieces, so I was comparing the two mediums, pencil and crayon, when I drew this rose in crayon. It is not as detailed because it is more of a sketch than a finished drawing, but I feel crayon could achieve the same results as the more expensive professional pencils I used for my pencil drawing. With the abstract crayon drawing, I was comparing the color effect to that which can be achieved with oil pastels, and although those two mediums seem similar in their make-up, they are actually much different in their use, with crayons acting more like pencils than oil pastels. And again, for the effective use of color, the crayon drawing is as effective as an oil pastel drawing of the same type.



"A Simple Rose" in Crayola Crayon

on Winsor & Newton hp watercolor paper





"Crayon Abstract No. 1" in Crayola Crayon

on Winsor & Newton hp watercolor paper





When contemplating "the ultimate" crayon to use, believe it or not, I am generally choosing the Crayola brand for a brand to purchase. I purchased a set of Stockmar Beeswax crayons and they are truly lovely to use. The beeswax adds a softness and luster to a drawing, and it "feels" more traditional and "ancient" to draw with beeswax crayons. However, they do have some special features that keep them from being my "crayons to grab". They are expensive - $ 12.95 for 8 colors at this writing. I don't want their lovely tin to get scratched. Beeswax tends to build up more quickly on paper, so although the luster of a drawing done entirely with beeswax crayons is a beautiful effect, the uneven lay-down of the natural wax does cause some problems if multiple layering is desired.



I have also made my own crayons, using both melted broken crayons and using raw wax and pigment to make my personal colors of choice.



Below is a drawing I did with my own hand-made beeswax crayons:






"Pear No. 9 in Crayon"

Hand-made beeswax crayons

on canvas





And yet, for sketching purposes, the tin of Crayola crayons in eight colors, is what I use most often. The "collector's tin" with an older design, costs $2.99 at this writing, from Crayola.com . (This page was written before I fully developed my own line of beeswax crayons, which are now what I use most often).



Support surfaces such as different papers, will yield varying effects with crayon. I am also working on some pieces in crayon on canvas. Each of these supports will yield a different texture in the finished drawing. I like the idea of canvas because wax on canvas is very appealing as a challenge. The layers must be built up carefully, the colors must be selected and applied with forethought, and the end result is closer to a "painting" than a drawing. Working on canvas is pushing the medium just a bit, and yet, when done well, the resulting art is very rewarding.



More traditional drawings are done on varying types of paper. From newsprint to watercolor paper for smooth textures, and charcoal or pastel paper for more rough textures, the paper, as with whether or not to work on canvas, is a personal choice. I personally find Strathmore 500 Series Charcoal paper to be the best paper for most drawings, with medium "tooth", archival quality, and it is fairly reasonable in price.



When choosing canvas, I use economical canvas panels. The rigid support of the cardboard interior, is very nice to work "against". Another option would be linen mounted to wood panels, which would make a canvas crayon piece more archival, however, the crayon itself may or may not be archival, so in some ways, it is spending more money than is needed to accomplish the art piece by creating it on linen and wood.



Below is a photo of three pear pieces - On the far left is Stockmar Beeswax Crayons on Strathmore 500 Series Charcoal Paper, the center is Crayola Crayon on canvas from a canvas pad, and the third is Crayola crayon on a canvas panel. I believe you can see the textural differences in the drawings. The crayon on the canvas panel is not what I would term the best of the three, and it is obviously over-worked. I did have fun doing it though, because I did it without the forethought and care I mentioned above - I was like a kid, drawing away! LOL, ah well, everyone needs a day like that. I would say the drawing done with the Stockmar Beeswax Crayons is the best of these three, with the crayon suiting the paper well. The pear on the plain canvas resembles a preliminary painting, or perhaps a pastel drawing with the light color of the canvas support showing as it does.







Wax crayons are an inexpensive way of expressing oneself through art, they can be "pushed" as an art medium, and are both convenient and portable. So, put a pack of Crayolas in your back pocket, you never know when you might want them.

My line of Simply Art (c) Beeswax Crayons are now only made for my own use.





All artwork and images remain © laeom, Laurie A.E. O'Meara. Page content originally published 2011 on my website.

Sunday, April 19, 2020

Muslin Hood Pattern

Muslin Hood Pattern
4 Pattern Pieces
Two layers of muslin for all pieces.
5/8 inch seam allowance ( adjust for sizing)

Pattern pieces
#1 - 21 inches long by 13 inches wide= hood sides/body
#2 - 8 inch diameter circle= crown
#3 - 7 inches long by 3-1/2 inches tall= forehead covering
#4 - 7-1/2 inches wide by 9-1/2 inches long= face covering

Use a chainstitch sewing machine to assemble first, adjust for size, and if you do not want to take it apart for embroidery or another reason, stitch with lockstitch sewing machine. Chain stitching the edges before assembly is optional. Use white thread for any seams or edges you want to leave in and colored thread for any seams or edges you may want to pull out.

Step 1 - on pattern piece 3, turn under by 1/4 inch on one long side, stitch.
- On pattern piece 4, do the same to one short edge.
- On pattern piece 1, do the same on both short sides.

Assembly
Step 1 - Place right sides together of pieces # 3 and #1 - placing piece #3 between the two short sides of piece #1 at one end of the shorter length. You are stitching the forehead cover to the hood sides at the top. Make sure the stitched edge of piece #3 points toward the bottom of the hood.
Step 2 - using "easing in", right sides together, pin the upper edges of pieces #1 and #3 to piece #2, the circle. Pin before stitching, gather or overlay if needed. You can also baste by hand or lockstitch machine and pull up bobbin threads to lightly gather. If not using a basting method, before pinning, fold the circle into equal quarters to make slight lines in the fabric and start by pinning at the center front, center back, and center side(s) before easing the rest of the fabric in place and pinning. Pay extra attention to the forehead covering being centered before stitching. Stitching should be even all around circle.
Step 3 - measure 1 to 1-1/2 inches down from the lower edge of the forehead covering. Place piece #4 at the measured length, pinning along the front sides down toward the bottom. Make sure stitched edge of piece #4 points up toward the top. Adjust before stitching to fit your face. Stitch along each side.
Step 4 - turn up bottom hem by 1/4 inch. Press.  Stitch. Turn hood right side out.



People or people in occupations who wear this type of hood include gardeners, artists, beekeepers, nuclear plant personnel, medical or anti-biological/virus personnel, welders and auto body shop personnel (metal hoods for some), to name a few. This is not meant as a religious garment.

Wednesday, October 2, 2019

Life Is Fragile

"Life Is Fragile"

This is a series of drawings or art that I have developed to depict the fragility of life.  It all started with my oil painting "The Yellow Flower"


I painted this flower in the 1990s, just after the car accident that disabled me.  I have flashbacks of this flower through all of my near-death experiences.  The loss of my parents, some relationship losses, and some public events are all reminders of how fragile life really is. Series "Life is Fragile" nos. 2-5 are small variations of The Yellow Flower, carved in wax, rubber, drawn in graphite, etc.


"Life Is Fragile No. 6, Baboon"

(below photo of an Idaho Fish and Game Warden hunting and killing a family of baboons, published in 2019, was the inspiration. The baboons in my mind are screaming. The man was forced to resign. Shooting young baboons is like shooting toddlers.)


Below are two depictions that equal "Life Is Fragile No. 7, Fragile Life" ("Fragile Life No. 1" and "Fragile Life No. 2")


"Fragile Life No. 1", oil bars on cotton cross stitch fabric


"Fragile Life No. 2", Yarka Sauce on Strathmore paper

Below: "Life Is Fragile No. 8, Rain", chalk on blackboard, placed in the rain - video here


"Life is Fragile No. 9, baby",washable ink on a cloth diaper


"Life is Fragile No. 10, Snap Trap, Mouse" Chalk on board


"Life is Fragile No. 11, School" pencil on brown bag paper, on my 27 year old denim-covered notebook


"Life is Fragile No. 12, Troll", chalk on board



"Life is Fragile, No. 13, Eastern White Pine" oil on canvas



(c) laeom







Monday, September 9, 2019

Iron Gall Ink (Apple Gall Ink)

I have in the past, made my own iron gall ink, wanting a permanent, hand-made ink.  Recently, when starting a project called "READ THEIR NAMES BRING THEM HOME" regarding the 7800+ MIA Korean War, I again have been looking into making my own ink.

I did a brief overview in this video: Iron Gall Ink Overview (Apple Gall Ink)

My MIA Korean War blog has me currently using Parker pens and Noodler's inks, both for quality, to avoid pens made in China, and for permanence.  However, as I said, I knew I could make my own inks, and have dug out my supplies for making iron gall ink.  In addition, I have cut some new pens from turkey feathers, a video you can find here:

Making Your Own Pen From a Feather

The steps I am taking are below to make my own ink:
1. I break the apple galls up with either a nut cracker or hammer, whichever is easier. You can then grind the pieces with a mortar and pestle. 
2. I place the broken/ground  pieces in a washed-out peanut butter jar and cover the galls with water.  I did not weigh the galls before I started the batch I am currently making, but 1-1/2" of broken apple galls, covered to the top of their mass with water, in a 16 ounce peanut butter jar, weighs 8.5 ounces.
3. This needs to soak for a week, at which time I will remove (strain) the gall pieces out, and the resulting liquid will be made into ink.
4. In the past I had added 1 tsp. ferrous sulphate to the liquid in that batch, which had started with 1 ounce of oak apple galls, weighed before being ground.




This is what an apple gall looks like when cracked open:


In the photo below, you see the pieces of oak apple gall ready to be ground in a mortar and pestle:


The galls and water are only on their second day of soaking, yet the tannins leaching out of the galls are already visible in the water:





I will post more photos as I complete this batch. You can find more information at Iron Gall Ink dot Org , including recipes!

After a week, the oak apple galls in water looked like this:


I strained the above mixture, heated it in a double boiler to a very low temperature, and added 1 tsp. of iron sulphate. The resulting ink is below:


and below are the different color hues achieved with varying amounts of iron sulphate added:



This is a beautiful ink, and depending of the type of dip pen in use, can be either very dark or paler.


Tuesday, July 16, 2019

Making Your Own Sumi Ink Calligraphy Brushes

Normally, bamboo handled brushes with squirrel or goat hair or a similar hair are used for Japanese Sumi ink calligraphy.  You can make your own brushes from items you may already have at home.




Boku Undo Co., Ltd and 




Tuesday, June 25, 2019

Crayola and Painting American

Recently I learned there are 7800+ MIA Korean War. If not for my father being sent to Germany during his Service in the Korean War, his name could be on the lists.  This caused me a shock with my sewing machines- Singer now manufactures in China and Brazil, so their bottom line of profit depends on China. China is the ally of both Russia and North Korea, and we are still at war with North Korea.

Although 90% of our products come from China, I have started to eliminate them from my life and am keeping wither those tools I make myself, or that are American. It's a huge shock and a huge task.

My criteria in the past as a Fine Artist has been to use the best materials.  I was recently venturing into using American or hand-made fabrics for landscape design, but kept running into my Singer sewing machines. I have some oil paintings to finish, and am going to finish some of them with oil pastel over oil- and of course "the best" oil pastels are not American, but French. The Statue of Liberty being given to us by France is not a strong enough reason for me to use Senneliers over - wait for it - Crayola Oil Pastels.  I love Crayola crayons, and making my own crayons came out of knowing the high quality of Crayola crayons.  I have worked extensively in oil pastel and crayon, but do not in any way expect to Crayola oil pastels to be on the level of Senneliers, Holbein, or any of the major brands.

However, Crayola is still based in the U.S. and manufactures in the U.S., in Pennsylvania. So, instead of spinning my own wool and cotton for quilts for Veterans, instead of painting flags, I am going to work in Crayola oil pastels or crayons.  I believe it is going to simplify my art on many levels - quality - color range-longevity-but at the same time, will not be supporting either China or North Korea. I will use cardboard for a support if I have to. American hardboard.

I will be posting photos of work in Crayola products as I do them.  As a side note, Dixon Ticonderoga is now owned by foreigners. A heartbreak, just like Levi's and Singer.

Monday, May 20, 2019

Whales In Oil


Whales in Oil



As I have been leaving some areas of my 42-year artistic career behind, I have been gaining and growing with it in other ways. After many, many years of working in meticulous pen and ink, I have developed a simpler love of art and nature. My metalpoint drawings reflect this, as do the oil paintings you see below. I have a love of whales. I think that if the whales fail, then we have failed. As such, I am painting simple depictions of several whales species. I am keeping them simple because my intent is to remind us of the gifts that they are, just as they are.





No. 900 "Sperm Whale No.1"
Oil on canvas.
6 inches by 18 inches.
© 2010 laeom




No. 901 "Humpback Whale"
Oil on canvas.
6 inches by 18 inches.
© 2010 laeom




No. 902 "Beluga Whale"
Oil on canvas.
6 inches by 18 inches.
© 2010 laeom




No. 903 "Orca Whale"
Oil on canvas.
6 inches by 18 inches.
© 2010 laeom




No. 904 "Northern Right Whale"
Oil on canvas.
6 inches by 18 inches.
© 2010 laeom




No. 905 "Blue Whale"
Oil on canvas.
6 inches by 18 inches.
© 2010 laeom




No. 906 "Pilot Whale"
Oil on canvas.
6 inches by 18 inches.
© 2010 laeom




No. 907 "Minke Whale"
Oil on canvas.
6 inches by 18 inches.
© 2010 laeom




No. 908 "California Grey Whale"
Oil on canvas.
6 inches by 18 inches.
© 2010 laeom




No. 909 "Baird's Beaked Whale"
Oil on canvas.
6 inches by 18 inches.
© 2010 laeom




No. 910 "Bowhead Whale"
Oil on canvas.
6 inches by 18 inches.
© 2010 laeom




No. 923 "Pygmy Sperm Whale"
Oil on canvas.
6 inches by 18 inches.
© 2010 laeom




No. 929 "Moby Dick"
Oil on canvas.
6 inches by 18 inches.
© 2010 laeom




Also in this Series:




No. 940 "Moby Dick No. 2"
Oil on canvas.
6 inches by 18 inches.
© 2012 laeom (gifted to Jonathan Farland)







No. 953 "Sperm Whale No. 4"
Oil on canvas.
6 inches by 18 inches.
© 2013 laeom







No. 954 "Harp Seal"
Oil on canvas.
6 inches by 18 inches.
© 2013 laeom







No. 955 "Sperm Whale No. 5"
Oil on canvas.
6 inches by 18 inches.
© 2013 laeom







No. 956 "Moby Dick No. 3"
Oil on canvas.
6 inches by 18 inches.
© 2013 laeom






No. 957 "Narwhal"
Oil on canvas.
6 inches by 18 inches.
© 2013 laeom



Currently I am working on a Fin Whale in oil




I had also done a Fin Whale in oil pastel (on 6 x 18 stretched canvas)



No. 994 "Fin Whale in Oil Pastel"
Oil pastel on canvas.
6 inches by 18 inches.
© 2014 laeom

The oils are painted with Winsor and Newton Artist's Oils, the oil pastel is Sennelier for the most part, with some other brands used as well.  Canvas is by Blick Art Materials.